Love and Messy Eating

I love food. I particularly love street food, and any local cuisine I can get my hands on. And in Dubai, I could literally get my hands on local food. (har, har...)

Hands down, the best dining experience I had on my solo, exploratory adventures was this amazing cafeteria close to the Spice Souk by the creek. I would have pictures, but I forgot my iPhone at the hotel. (remember in the previous blog about our flight home, I had other things to worry about...) All of my pictures were on that iPhone because I didn't want to look touristy, so in a couple months, when we go back to Dubai, I'll retrieve the phone and update this blog with pictures...

I was so tired of eating at the overpriced restaurants close to our hotel. Even the food court food at the mall were an average of $10-15. And, even though the food was good, it was usually a kebab and I pretty much had my fill of kebabs day and night. Plus, I think it's a good practice to eat where the locals eat anytime you're in a new place. It's something Anthony Bourdain does, and it got him a few hit tv shows and multiple book deals, so whats the worse that could happen?

This cafeteria was super local. I walked in and everyone stared. Notice, I did not say stopped. They continued eating (with their hands, mind you), but all eyes were on me. I've found that the best way to avoid an uncomfortable situation like this one, is to pretend it's not uncomfortable. It doesn't always work, but in this case it did because I was escorted upstairs and into a separate room for families and women.

(*side note: there are a lot of things that have separate spaces for women and children only and it's not to isolate or treat harshly. It's for the woman's comfort level. South Texas will understand, since there are certain places and people who think that leering is ok when a woman walks by and it's not fun for us. So, the women, who are taught extreme modesty by the teachings of Islam, can choose to be in a space reserved for them away from creepers. It's not that they aren't allowed in the other spaces, it's a matter of preference and they do have a choice in the matter.)

The server who helped me was great! He spoke a little English and fixed me up with the house specialty, which I still don't know what its called. Within minutes, I had a chilled soup of curd, cilantro, carrot shavings, finely chopped onion and chives. There were no actual curds in it, it was just the milk from it. Sounds so gross, I know, but when you've stepped inside from the 120 degree weather outside, it is the most delicious, refreshing thing. Ever. Also refreshing when your mouth is ON FIRE from the hot curry that you generously douse your plate in...

They kept it coming, dropping off a plate of rice, a small bowl of red curry, larger bowl of green curry (both with veggies) and two hunks of chicken. He also brought me a bottle of water, despite the pitcher of water already at the table. And even though I wanted to be local and authentic, I didn't complain.

The rice. Oh, delicious rice. It was flavored with all sorts of spices, but the only one I could really place were cloves. I can place these because it was very strange to feel like you're bighting down on a small piece of a tree branch while eating rice and that tree branch sliver be so packed with flavor. Throw in the curry and rip chunks of chicken straight off the bone and eat with your hand. Luckily, I had gone to the cultural presentation, so I knew how to eat with my hands. You should only use your right hand and on your right hand, your thumb, pointer and middle finger. Way harder than it sounds. My ring finger and pinky got a little messy at times, but for the most part I did good. That dollup of curry keeps it all together for the most part.

About halfway into my amazing meal, my server came back with half a plateful of rice and just scooped it on my plate. As I kept eating, I couldn't help but wonder who in the restaurant hadn't finished their meal, providing me with seconds, but I just keep eating through the disgusting thought.

As I was finishing up, my server returned with my check on a plate full of what looked like seeds and some colorful candies that reminded me of "nerds". Wanting to make sure I got the full experience, I asked it I eat it and he said that it was sweet and meant for eating. So, I dug in, grabbed a handful and tried it. So. Delicious. It was almost like a licorice flavor, so probably not for everyone, but it was a perfectly sweet but not sweet ending to my meal.

Total cost? 15 dirham ($5)

I went back another time and had the same experience, only now I knew to ask for tea. They serve a tea on the streets in that area that is absolutely delicious! Horrible for you, I'm sure, but delicious just the same. If I had to guess, I would say that it is regular black tea with loads of sweetened, condensed milk. Maybe because I ordered tea, maybe because I came back, or maybe because it wasn't sold out that day, I got another dish. Some type of cold salad. No idea what it was or what was in it. Fairly certain it was some type of stuffed grape leaves, but cannot confirm. I just eat what the locals give me. I also earned a spicy sauce. I think it was called pickled mangos or something. It was red pepper paster with pickled mangos. At least, that's my guess. It was a little salty for me, and I preferred the red curry for my spice, but I was still pretty proud to earn the right to use it.

Cheers to the local flavors and their hospitality. Totally worth the trip.